Gareth Pugh
Film by Ruth Hogben
2011
With a collection inspired by religious iconography and Florentine opulence, Gareth Pugh made his Italian fashion debut at Pitti Immagine #79, showcasing his clothes via a unique fashion film, created with Ruth Hogben.
Immediately an intense atmosphere is created through the power strong music. The beat mirrors the sound of a heart beat, increasing in passe which helps to build tension between the viewer and the imagery. I feel this fashion video is a really unique way of show casing a collection - starkly different to Temperley's zoetrope. The black and white color scene allows all the focus to be on what is happening through out the video. This video is visually very captivating and they have created a visual that has an incredible power to affect its audience. The over all theme is very uncomfortable and watching it there is a strong sense of 'out of this world' behavior. Through out the beginning of the video you see glimpses of white through the darkness. The figures flash up and disappear again, this is a style of film often seen in Horror or thriller movies. It puts you on edge as you are left questioning where the strange, un-humanly figure will pop up again.The figures appear to look you straight in the eye and the angle of the camera makes it seem as if they are starring down on you, like they are watching from above. All these ellements help to enhance the intense uneasy atmosphere. This is also enhanced by the sharp unnatural body movements created by the models. I think this video is a perfect example of combining fashion with horror, and I find the style and theme very inspiring although I feel the over all atmosphere should be toned down to fit the purpose of a music video.
Death is a key theme to the urban legend I have chosen. Gareth Pugh is renowned for creating extravagant narrative through he use of fashion and design. The makeup looks showcased on his 2013 catwalk incorporate a sense of death and deterioration with a fashion edge. I feel this style creates a very cold atmosphere, the models look empty as if they are completely lifeless. The sense of lifelessness in a body automatically makes an audience feel on edge as we relate this to death. I imagine the 'clown' in the legend to be almost possessed, when they are standing in the corner of the room they appear to be a statue with absolutely no movement or life to them. I feel Gareth Pugh's looks relate to this theme a lot and I would like to experiment with the sense of something appearing to be completely lifeless.
This video further demonstrates Gareth Pugh's idea of lifelessness. The models on the catwalk are very stiff and still, the white dress create a silhouette that almost resembles ghostly figures. I feel the music the models walk to also creates an intense and eerie atmosphere.
These designs by Gareth Pugh, seen on another one of his catwalks feature neck ruffs - a signature piece of clothing often worn by clowns. Here we are able to see how fashion can draw from childish themes as inspiration and completely transform them into being a high fashion concept.
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